https://www.desioonhub.org/desi-oon-stories daily 0.75 2025-12-06 https://www.desioonhub.org/desi-oon-stories/wool-from-the-deccan-plateau-of-india monthly 0.5 2025-12-06 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/dd95f84f-8f4a-4a94-889e-13e1e36e8ec0/508.Malshej+Ghat-+wtaking+a+de-route+from+the+highway.IMG_6389.jpg Stories - Wool from the Deccan Plateau of India - Make it stand out A herd in Malshej Ghat, Maharashtra. Image by Nipun Prabhakar for Living Lightly. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1631088517257-I8OPH2YJ4GRIJIEWX454/267.Dharmapuri-+++Balumama%27s+flock+marked+with+different+colours..IMG_1782.jpg Stories - Wool from the Deccan Plateau of India - Image: Balu Mama’s flock of Deccani Sheep. Image by Nipun Prabhakar for Living Lightly. Shepherds across Maharashtra, Karnataka, Telangana and Andhra Pradesh have, for centuries, shared an intimate relationship with their traditional Deccani sheep, its wool, manure and meat. Predominant amongst shepherd communities of the deccan, the Dhangars, Kurubas, and Kurumas — all children of the same god — are held together by their black Deccani sheep and stories of their origin. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/ab4c4a6a-d948-415a-bc7d-79cc6ad0ff05/520.Malshej+Ghat-+walking+on+the+highway.IMG_6347.jpg Stories - Wool from the Deccan Plateau of India - Image: A Deccani herd walks to the Western Ghats fertilizing fields as they move. Image by Nipun Prabhakar for Living Lightly The small and hardy deccani sheep are adept at making the long, thirst-filled, post-monsoon voyages to the Krishna or Godavari river basins while some others of their ilk make it to the western ghats. They ruminate and fertilise vast tracts of lands as they move; and even today, farmers along the pastoral tracks, await their annual arrival. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/e668d8e4-0e4b-4cbf-8de8-dab4be09e869/1_PwaO8HnI_KQdJ56WLNrSIw.jpeg Stories - Wool from the Deccan Plateau of India - Image: The shepherd and the priest. Integral to the lives of the sheep pastoralists and communities in their ecosystem is the Gongadi, an iconic blanket, handspun and woven from the black wool of the indigenous Deccani sheep. It is the woolly prism through which one understands the life-world of the decani shepherds. The Gongadis are a unique mix of the everyday and the unique ~ shepherds carry the black Gongadi on their right shoulder, priests carry it on their right, and the deities reside within its folds ~ each made distinct by the patterns of the Kada (hand woven border) and the Suncha (tassels). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/744b8d88-6ec2-4b29-b0e6-a57c4594f973/1_QrUatnmAet_NUOvvFjXnow.jpeg Stories - Wool from the Deccan Plateau of India - Make it stand out Many pastoral women still spin wool on their thighs. Illustration by Sandeep Virmani. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1631338564953-CV915OQLSIQP6EDNIO9H/399.Bidal-+Felting+process-+Motifs+are+made+using+various+coloured+wool+%28both+natural+and+artificial%29..IMG_2755+felt.jpg Stories - Wool from the Deccan Plateau of India - Image: A Nadaf couple felts wool in Bidal, Maharashtra. Image by Nipun Prabhakar for Living Lightly In southern Karnataka, the rich coarse wool has traditionally inspired an exquisite three dimensional prayer flag called the ‘Jhanda’, intricately woven with a double shaft. And throughout this sheep terrain, the art of felting wool continues to thrive in specialized villages of Maharashtra, Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh and Telangana, amongst special felting communities. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/ba3edba9-8959-4ea5-8595-ef5f61e8422e/95.ghodegaon+phata-+Takle+family+%27s+wada+early+morning.IMG_1919.jpg Stories - Wool from the Deccan Plateau of India - Make it stand out Sheep of different coats indicating mixed breed profiles. Photos by Nipun Prabhakar for Living Lightly. https://www.desioonhub.org/desi-oon-stories/sheep-and-wool-of-the-himalayan-ecosystem monthly 0.5 2022-06-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/cc7ec7bb-0ca5-4fef-a23f-d3e4b11fe07c/Credit+Peter+Van+Geit+%26+Ultrajourneys.org.jpg Stories - Sheep and Wool of the Himalayan Ecosystem - Make it stand out Gaddi Herders overlooking their herds on alpine pastures. Image by Peter Van Geit https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/4e73d5ed-d5e3-44ce-b4df-51d955ce3418/SOH+pastoral+hut.jpeg Stories - Sheep and Wool of the Himalayan Ecosystem - Image: A pastoral hut on an alpine meadows in Garhwal, Uttrakhand. Image by Shepherds of Himalaya The mighty Himalayas sheath many unexplored swathes of pristine meadows, shelter diverse shepherding communities, nimble footed flocks of goats and sheep, and diverse wool cultures and economies. The alpine meadows are the heartland of pastoral systems in the western Himalayas, and every year, with the onset of summer, the Gaddis, Kinnauris, Kannets, Lahaulis, Pangis of Himachal Pradesh, and Changpas of Ladakh, the Palsis of Garhwal, the Bhotias of Kumaon, Bakarwals of Kashmir, amongst many others, make their way to the alpine pastures ~ the bugyals. The sheep follow their keeper as they head to the high passes and navigate treacherous tracts, driven by dreams of bountiful green grass, clear water and fresh air at the end of the climb! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/488d351b-a17c-43cb-8594-6b780c146668/shearing.jpeg Stories - Sheep and Wool of the Himalayan Ecosystem - Shearing on the alpine meadows. Illustration by Sandeep VIrmani https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/4dd250fc-cf6f-4a6a-883e-2c429553bb3b/1_yIGUDzRpeZQTe5MbBW1hxA.jpeg Stories - Sheep and Wool of the Himalayan Ecosystem - Sheep of Himachal carry this unique double coat; the long fine fibres sheath a coarse coat of shorter fibres. “The desi is unique in its double-coated wool — the presence of two distinct types of fibre within the fleece of a single sheep — one long, relatively coarse and low-crimp, and one that is shorter, finer, and crimpier — two timescales expressed side-by-side within the same fleece!” – adds Jen Image by Jen Hoover https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1630387194821-NJRU5UBX62J7PAN825EI/IMG-20191011-WA0006.jpg Stories - Sheep and Wool of the Himalayan Ecosystem - Image: The Harsil sheep of Uttrakhand. Image by Vasanthi Velluri In the tail of the sheep also lie tales of its nativity! The purest of the indigenous sheep are often distinguished by their short tails. The Palsi shepherds of Garhwal revere their small, predominantly black, some white, and some red-brown Kathis. And across Garhwal and Kumaon, their hearts remain warmed by talks of their Bhotiya — the local sheep breed named after their keepers, the Bhotiyas, who were nomadic pastoralists until 5 decades ago and settled down as artisans even as trade with Tibet declined. It is said that the Harsil sheep, named after the idyllic village, Harsil, in the Ganga Valley, which produces the best wool in the State, while Gaddi shepherds speak, rather wistfully, of the Gaddi and the Rampur Bushairi being their very own local sheep; but almost fully crossbred now, since decades, with exotic, imported breeds. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/6a72e002-8c1a-4d97-8797-8cc3c6547c4d/1_lpQ7Vv8oUYB_U8adhKmWyg.jpeg Stories - Sheep and Wool of the Himalayan Ecosystem - Image: A dora being undergoing ‘Mandai’. Mandai is a process that applies the felted finish on woollens such as Gardus. Image by Jen Hoover When the Himalayan Shepherds spend four to five months on the high reaches, the monsoon showers and cold nights find their able match in a Gardu ~ a dense woven woollen textile that has a felted finish which makes it impervious to continuous showers and the chilly winds alike. One possible reason why cheap plastic sheets have not been able to fully replace the Gardu, as it has in other parts of the country, is that plastic can only keep the rain away but not keep the body warm. Wool on the other hand generates a lot of heat as it absorbs water. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/d6f6792c-46a1-4c18-9a51-09b61fb47e44/Lata+Sharma+knitting+and+Renu+Thakur+beside+her.jpg Stories - Sheep and Wool of the Himalayan Ecosystem - The Knitter’s Office. Lata Sharma and her team mate of Kullvi Whims in action. Image by Nisha Subramaniam Himalayas are also home to many knitters, a relatively new craft community. Though not a traditional craft practice, the knit crafts-women are known to be super dexterous. It is not uncommon to find women knitting on the move; they negotiate twisting trails and intricate designs at the same time with equal serenity; a testament to their focus, skill, and balance. They, along with the weavers and shepherds of Himachal Pradesh and Uttarakhand bring you a small flavour of new possibilities. https://www.desioonhub.org/desi-oon-stories/sheep-and-wool-of-the-arid-west-of-india monthly 0.5 2021-12-19 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/889f5586-63a3-40fe-a188-4bb477664545/desi-oon-5.jpg Stories - Sheep and wool of the arid west of India - Make it stand out A herd of sheep and goats in Kutch. Image by Ishaan Raghunandan for Living Lightly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/760a7365-24ca-4165-832f-8e3da71c1841/raika.jpeg Stories - Sheep and wool of the arid west of India - Image: A Raika Herder with his herd. Image courtesy Centre for Pastoralism The sheep of these regions are known for their ability to graze all day on little water or food, under the harshest of suns. And their keepers too are amongst the most mobile of pastoralists, traversing vast terrains, always on the move, in search of graze and water. No wonder, the states of Rajasthan and Gujarat harbour some of the most precious animal genetic resources of the country. Rajasthan alone is the native tract for eight indigenous sheep breeds of India, while Gujarat accounts for another three. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1631184149861-VPQEX6KEF2YZ539TBLVU/desi-oon-40.jpg Stories - Sheep and wool of the arid west of India - Make it stand out A tangaliya skirt being woven on a pit-loom. Image by Ishaan Raghunandan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/9153b3b8-cccd-45e3-99d9-5609e77e8177/desi-oon-26.jpg Stories - Sheep and wool of the arid west of India - Image: Raniben spinning on a charkha. Image by Ishaan Raghunandan The wool crafting chain starts with the herder communities themselves ~ the older men, especially, are obsessive spinners, spinning continuously on a takli as they move with their animals. The women of the herding families, however, are the real experts in spinning fine, strong yarn. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/7b2e1f00-9bcf-4d96-9d8c-58132abfc701/desi-oon-181.jpg Stories - Sheep and wool of the arid west of India - Make it stand out A Rabari woman with her woollen Ludi. Image by Aishwarya Maheshwari https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/87a255ba-8c21-455f-adf6-62e7c7e4d6a7/namda-1.jpg Stories - Sheep and wool of the arid west of India - Image: Gul Mamad bhai, a felter at work. Image by Ishaan Raghunandan 2019 was an especially difficult year for us. There had been little rain for four years and we had no work. So we turned back to our craft of felting after 12 long years. – Gul Mamad bhai, a felt artisan based in Todiya village, Kutch. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/4c7ed130-8816-462b-85a6-4ef95223e8de/felted+saddle Stories - Sheep and wool of the arid west of India - A feltmaker making a saddle. Image by Ishaan Raghunandan Development in the form of tar roads was late in finding its feet on these lands which made Horses and Camels vital for transport. And a large community of felters took it upon themselves to make felted saddles for the riders. There remain a few makers of these textiles whose saddles continue to be sought and bought. https://www.desioonhub.org/desi-oon-stories/post3-ly4lk monthly 0.5 2022-06-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/aa46755c-5b25-4264-b72c-61d6cc4944d1/reduced-size.jpg Stories - Desi Oon: The Exhibition https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1631088517257-I8OPH2YJ4GRIJIEWX454/267.Dharmapuri-+++Balumama%27s+flock+marked+with+different+colours..IMG_1782.jpg Stories - Desi Oon: The Exhibition India is home to several climatic regions, soils, and hence ecosystems. Indian herders have bred sheep that are flawlessly adapted to their local conditions. There are 43 recognized native breeds by last count, reflecting the diverse ecologies and diligence of herders! Perhaps, after decades of romancing with the ubiquitous merino, which we get from distant sheep lands, we could begin to turn our gaze to, and feel the touch of Desi Oon once again? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1631370740059-AGYGTLX1ATBGSYR912NR/Kalori+collection+2019_+Ishaan+Raghunandan.jpg Stories - Desi Oon: The Exhibition Every sheep region has its own wool-craft ecosystem. A wide diversity of colour, texture, length and width of wool fibres have shaped signature products of each region. Living Lightly celebrates this versatile fibre and its remarkable diversity; it salutes the artisanship of our spinners, felters, dyers, and weavers; and brings together many initiatives that are working to promote the indigenous wool economies of India. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1637057837274-0193Y2L4CFGDC4HGCJZW/Desioon_BikanerHouse_KhamirArchives_1315_800.jpeg Stories - Desi Oon: The Exhibition - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://www.desioonhub.org/wool-products daily 0.75 2022-06-18 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1645699522146-U4XT6PCW4ZT5I0EFR1PH/3E0A5982+copy.png Wool Products https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1645700703889-CYXV8W8M79EWQF1WQ6GW/3E0A7680+copy.png Wool Products https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1645776244621-3JKJ64TGIE88NAGQS9WN/31226__.png Wool Products https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1645776554602-OAABLK8XFN8P3ZAXI7F1/DSC_0792.png Wool Products https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1645777177886-WUEZN5PX2D8QSXI8BTVN/By+Nipun+Prabhakar+for+Living+Lightly+%2818%29.png Wool Products https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1645777557595-Y8DGJV4SB03Q90U82HTT/3E0A5439+copy.png Wool Products https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1645777765243-06JWZWZ81TY5P3UEG3KI/3E0A7706+copy.png Wool Products https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1647011337117-VKH2JI070JIOZXNQY9CK/_MG_0345.png Wool Products https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1647061968820-N4UIDH1YC5R2X28569HT/3E0A6041+copy.png Wool Products https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1647062292408-JIHZCKFB7ORMI2UDX91I/Kalori+collection+2019_+Ishaan+Raghunandan.png Wool Products https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1647063504387-CIFBBSC8KBIR3UZ3XE0X/3E0A7856+copy.png Wool Products https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1647064065072-V2ZJ3G5PGSI60Z932AJX/DSC_0171.png Wool Products https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1647064534197-Z0D9SI3DYNUGHAFBQ18D/DSC_0163+EDIT.png Wool Products https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1647065294741-BDG1WWLM76SF9QZKT7L0/Dakhni+Diaries+Products-118.png Wool Products https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1647065521169-XV1PI3IWWL6BKTLRQPKB/Dakhni+Diaries+Products-91.png Wool Products https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1647066407121-4KQH64O491R9BV119Y5X/Dakhni+Diaries+Products-140.png Wool Products https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1647066867107-HALOQZ8VUJUY4SXMB91T/Dakhni+Diaries+Products-8.png Wool Products https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1647067371957-ZLT3R98PB7D81H16R1VW/Neelkanth+Mama-3730.png Wool Products https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/cc7ec7bb-0ca5-4fef-a23f-d3e4b11fe07c/Credit+Peter+Van+Geit+%26+Ultrajourneys.org.jpg Wool Products - The Himalayas have the softest wool of all the regions. It is the only region in which the herders still exhibit dependence on income from the wool sales. The local wool is often woven into patties and cut into jackets. The wool is also woven into Pattu or Gardus, which are felted after weaving, making dense textiles. These Gardus/Pattus are used by the herders as rain gear on the alpine meadows. However, the usage of these textiles is on the decline because the newer generation finds clothing made of synthetic fibres a lot more appealing. Such clothing is a lot cheaper than handwoven textiles. The government has also been distributing tents and alpine wear to the herders, and this is another reason for the decline in the use of traditional textiles. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1631184569851-B2XCPAJ7VM5G5CVE5EK6/desi-oon-177.jpg Wool Products - The Pattu, the Bardi, the Ludi, the Tangaliya and the Dhabda are storied textiles The Pattu and the Bardi are shawls from Rajasthan and make for mandatory gifts on occasions of betrothal and marriage. They are found aplenty in rural and town markets, though often woven in cotton, acrylic or shoddy yarn these days. It is particularly hard to find one made of wool since wool costs more, and these products are not expected to be worn in the rains or the cold, as they serve little functional purpose in such conditions The Dhabda, too, has met a similar fate as the Pattu and Bardi. Dhabda is often made in cotton and acrylic these days. The elderly women of the Rabari community still wear the woollen dhabda, but the younger generations do not. It is hard to find tied and dyed woollen ludis in markets these days. The Bharwad women wear the Tangaliya- it is expected that they wear it on their wedding day, and different tangaliya textiles are part of the wedding trousseau. However, some of this tradition has been lost as a result of handwoven textiles being relatively expensive and textiles made of artificial fibres being positioned as fashionable in general. In many ways, these communities have been forced to let go of their traditions. These communities find it harder to migrate due to several reasons and most have resorted to a day-grazing strategy which typically does not involve camping under the stars. Such a lifestyle has little need for wool. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1631338564953-CV915OQLSIQP6EDNIO9H/399.Bidal-+Felting+process-+Motifs+are+made+using+various+coloured+wool+%28both+natural+and+artificial%29..IMG_2755+felt.jpg Wool Products - Jaan and Gongadi: Two iconic woollen textiles of the Deccan region Gongadi is the iconic woollen textile of the Deccan plateau and continues to be widely used, both by pastoralists as well as farmers. The original black Gongadi with its distinguishing kada is highly valued even though the average Gongadi in the market is a look-alike. These look-alikes sell at one fourth the price of the cheapest wool-handwoven gongadi. The fakes are produced on Power Looms that use shoddy yarn of lower/poor quality. The shoddy yarn is spun from a mix of waste synthetic fibre, cotton fibres, and woollen fibres. The other important woollen textile of the Deccan plateau is the Jaan, a felt made from the Deccani wool with trademark motifs. The felt is used by pastoral communities as mattresses. Jaan artisans, these days, find it hard to procure local wool; and recently many herders, unable to afford the jaans produced by traditional craftsmen, have started making these felted articles by themselves at home. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1631803011666-KVZ0P0P3JMKCV76WE831/desi-oon-15.jpg Wool Products - Wool: Fibre of the future There is increasing evidence to suggest that pastoral systems play an important role in seed dispersal, biodiversity conservation, and carbon sequestration. Considering these, it can be posited that wool in pastoral systems is produced with the slightest of ecological footprints. In a world threatened by climate change, we need a fibre that is easy to maintain, has a negligible footprint and can be processed into textiles in small scale setups. Wool ticks all the boxes and there are many arguments to support claims that wool is the fibre of the future. https://www.desioonhub.org/home daily 1.0 2025-12-06 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1623301800122-ARP7UBH1NJNV7S6G11M5/avanilogo.png Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1623300836214-X0TWCT8MDLFYSHBACFGM/KHAMIR_LOGO_TM+-+Transperent.png Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1623300764241-O2LFMWAHSW89VADTFFXU/rangsutra-colour.png Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1631610566590-HNTIPDCW6TVCCKE89PON/urmul1.png Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1657692576673-14JQPJIG5PRO4YNE5XIN/FINAL+PEOLI+LOGO-04+with+R+mark_S.png Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1657692722957-6M2D4MCYPJS28XXKLX8R/ET_LOGO_Balanced.png Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1657692778664-PQ0DVXKNZOXBASW1ROCF/miyar+mufflers+logo+final+-+transparent+background.png Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1657693476977-G5LWVRKE4E7LODP8YP80/cfp-horizontal++%281%29.png Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1657693625039-SRLE59SG2S22NTC2QNPL/Screenshot%252B2021-08-17%252Bat%252B10.14.18%252BAM.jpg Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1657712170999-EZX6DSU0DG66CBFA8LS8/Cotton+Rack+Logo.png Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/0cd58a3d-2881-4cdc-a9ca-d1e708031898/go_do_good_logo.jpeg Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/4d3e65ed-e323-4296-8344-6f8149ee683c/Magra-Logo-04-p-500.png Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/ed5e94dc-6777-44b5-b3cf-ab605a3b83be/download.png Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/5661e650-3c31-4596-8aa9-7d3459469dfb/Its+all+folk_label.png Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/c0783dc3-45d9-44f1-90a9-7f19303415d7/TP_Logo.jpeg Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/aec2ad54-3e01-4038-99a3-954a419f2b7e/Woolknitters+Logo.png Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/61476f6e-0f83-47f7-8a85-e6691f66297b/Bakarwal+crafts+updated+logo_result.png Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/adcb1a3e-ad56-4578-8df5-cf4d7b12cf75/Shamji+Bhai+-+Logo.png Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/40d997c0-31aa-46ac-b616-194411d449fc/Bandipora_Logo_result.png Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/b44eefbc-c2fd-476d-b07d-9ce315701587/chubako_replace+with+La_result.png Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/f11aaa57-df22-49bf-9472-51f00b937903/Maati+Logo_result.png Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/bba6efbc-b827-45a1-a493-e1796385e7fe/Copy+of+20241206_140615_0000_result.png Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/51c05421-e9ad-4353-ba04-bcf653ae5a8b/Kullviwhims+logo_result.png Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/82e915c7-8272-4dca-9ef4-0633a5dd4325/Mitan.png Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/c1b40761-cae3-4f1e-8a12-d830f1d1bf71/Bakarwal+logo_result.png Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/85214556-c102-4c9e-8296-30d1e2e9ff6b/kambl+logo.jpg Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/cb33656b-e195-4de4-aafe-a6f3baf3d68b/IMG-20191011-WA0005.jpg Home Grazing: A shepherd with his herd in the alpine meadows of Kumaon in Uttarakhand. These semi-nomadic shepherds spend days of mystic solitude on the high alpine ranges and start climbing down to the lower hills as winter approaches. ©Peoli https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/8e632d2e-31de-4b93-a651-2b58827a48e2/Wool+Shearing.jpg Home Shearing: Every year before the rains and after the harvest in October, the wool has to be harvested off the sheep for their well-being. The pastoralists avail the services of expert shearers who have the know-how of shearing the sheep without nicks or cuts or causing discomfort to the sheep. ©Shepherds of Himalayas https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/dd11ba4d-2852-4725-8c80-3d48a3a5e507/shearing-himalayas.jpg Home "When I started work a kilo of honey, ghee, chillies, and desi wool were the same! In the past decades, the price of wool compared to the other three fell. No demand….and suddenly there is a spurt again. I hope our woollen handlooms are liked by people now…this is what we have done for the last 35 years...this is what we know how to do well." - Mansa Ram, wool pastoralist-weaver from Kangra ©Aana Jaana https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/caa5dbc2-c14d-4728-90ae-ec129a15f755/Wool+Carding.jpg Home Carding and Spinning: Women from the community sort the wool by the length, softness and amount of vegetative matter. They then card the wool (align the fibres in one direction) which is essential before the wool can be spun into yarn. They either card the wool by hand or use locally made hand-carders. The cleansed and carded fibre is used for hand-spinning. ©Kullvi WHIMS https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/02845ad4-3504-4dc0-95b8-4b3305a6b8f9/IMG_7674.JPG Home Handspinning has been ubiquitous in India. So has been the charkha and the takli (drop spindle) which the spinners of India use to produce the finest yarn! Khamir has worked to blend wool with silk, hemp, and cotton to produce an amazing diversity of wool. ©Khamir https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/52d0e60d-3db7-497a-a4ac-a2c63a67a189/IMG_5105.jpg Home Weaving: Integral to the lives of the sheep pastoralists and communities in the Deccani ecosystem is the Gongadi, an iconic blanket, handspun and woven from the black wool of the indigenous Deccani sheep. The storied Gongadi is like a woolly prism that can unfurl the life-world of the decani shepherds. ©Mitan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/8298786a-96bf-45c1-bdcc-d5aee4c9d064/desi-oon-38.jpeg Home Using either nomadic looms or stationary looms, the community of weavers craft woollen yarns into items of everyday use such as clothing, bedding and carpets. Since mobile herders needed products that were durable, multi-purpose, and easy to carry, the artisans adapted materials and evolved their practices to suit these needs. The woven woollen products are so durable that a Kharad carpet from Kachchh is known to last 100 years. ©Khamir https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1630387771502-0H59FQ091EMGS7SYN3JH/Deccani+Wool+Black.jpg Home The Deccani shepherds begin their tryst with sheep & wool early! “On the third day of a baby being born, we have a ritual called Purudu. We place our wool in the cradle and cover it with a white fabric. The baby is laid on top of it. If a baby boy, we surround him with tools for shearing & little baskets of wool. If a baby girl, we place carding & spinning tools beside her. And their life as a shepherd begins!” ~ Shankar Shannakoi, Weaver ©Earthen Tunes https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/702a81e6-107a-460b-9b80-28b2630ff4cf/Traditional+Felt+Detail%2C+Kutch_Ishaan+Raghunandan.jpg Home Raw wool, dyed or undyed, is also used for felting textiles such as mats, carpets, horse saddles, etc. The beautiful intricate work performed on this piece of textile has been felted and embriodered. ©Khamir https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/0957813d-a7fb-4899-9ec9-95783ccf914e/desi-oon-54.png Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/98697a3b-5381-41d4-bf7d-c438d648bf52/IMG_0102.png Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/87a8067f-1eed-4a51-be86-3c276911ced3/4.png Home https://www.desioonhub.org/wool-pastoralism daily 0.75 2022-07-21 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1642405023903-Q4E3EJ9K8V50ZB7C5CJZ/unsplash-image-RJ17oltAMLk.jpg Wool & Pastoralism https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1643699117655-BKKOCDUC1XI7R87ZZOFN/temperature+regulation.png Wool & Pastoralism https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/a5070725-f3d3-4b45-819b-834b8f3f6cee/naturally+breathable+.png Wool & Pastoralism https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/c81084a8-1322-4f90-be7e-344c4be7a6d1/Most+reused+and+recycled+fibre.png Wool & Pastoralism https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/2abc6faf-0bb3-4277-a682-d52300318a82/100_+renewable.png Wool & Pastoralism https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/51c2b651-a7cc-4e81-a7c7-aacc802a5c2e/100_+natural+and+bio+degradable.png Wool & Pastoralism 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https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1646496032529-X04QHQQWPJLFDL0ARLIQ/wrinkle+resistant+.png Wool & Pastoralism https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1651649038399-37M5S7ZF5YR0TNQIACU5/fire+resistant+_+1.png Wool & Pastoralism https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1651649152351-YJ93ZZ7AO1AAP81D0GAW/sequesters+carbon+from+atmosphere_1.png Wool & Pastoralism https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1651649517846-D4AVH06KHGR8LYM6HXB6/UV+protection.png Wool & Pastoralism https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/8a8f6950-49ef-4ce4-8177-78e0540ca0f0/Sheep+map+new.png Wool & Pastoralism Please note: This map presents all the registered sheep breeds of India as per their native tract. 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Here, Gulmohammad Pinjara from Kutch cleanses and cards wool by beating it with a stick. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/b186dcd8-b165-4358-8591-c6e6d0507bba/preparing+dye+materials.png Desi Oon Crafts Subtle and elegant, vegetable dyes capture the sparkles of the earth like no other object. Dyes of every region present a sketch of the local vegetation, climate, and ecology. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/4f62ae8b-cc47-4ecd-9746-9372fb85a8b0/spinning-himalayas.png Desi Oon Crafts Spinning is the art of twisting and turning fibres into yarn. The first instance of spinning is about 9,000-10,000 years old, using drop spindles. The charkha, as we know it today, began to be used widely in 500 AD. Today, most hand-spinners use a charkha. The indigenous pastoral communities in India have always spun wool. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/3929394a-a469-4071-9f04-50e27e410c00/shamji.png Desi Oon Crafts Weaving is mystic amongst crafts. Indian saints, as well as folk culture, have often explained the non-dualities of life through the metaphor of weaving craft. Every weave establishes itself on warp threads, the taana, stretched on a loom. A textile is born when the baana, the weft, crisscrosses the taana, always so, at right angles. The weaving craft has journeyed many geographies and seen many tools, techniques, and technologies. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/a3647a60-b4e4-4f11-a477-f2376934499b/knitting.png Desi Oon Crafts The Himalayas are also home to many knitters, a relatively new craft community. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/4ad47a62-9782-4af2-bb29-58ee870da693/desi-oon-22.png Desi Oon Crafts Ranabhai, a herder from Kutch shows a Tabaria Wana handwoven with camel wool. The Tabaria wana is made with sheep and camel hair yarn. The Maldharis hand-spin the yarn through takli-spinning. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/c9504cb6-bc39-42ff-87a1-52f13eab143a/namda-3.jpg Desi Oon Crafts Namda craft requires different shapes of raw wool such as wool threads & wool balls for creating intricate felted pieces. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/ab00da1a-723e-4c03-83b3-c50adb5de46a/washing+a+small+test+batch+of+wool.png Desi Oon Crafts Vegetable dyeing is a test of ability as much as of endurance. Dyers have had to face many more failures than Edison to un-riddle dyeing recipes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/f120e2cf-5a09-4486-b610-7a7ea9ac2cdd/spinning-deccan.png Desi Oon Crafts They are experts in achieving the fine balance of twist and draw to produce a variety of low/high twists and thick/thin yarn. The women use the charkha to spin. The rhythmic rotation of the charkha accompanied by the nimble draw of fibres is meditative for the spinners. The charkha has become a symbol of self-reliance for rural women as they get a chance to work from their homes and earn a livelihood. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/25f559b5-b58e-4c5d-87b5-f68c9be79cd1/Digoli+weaving+pic.png Desi Oon Crafts The interplay of the taana and the baana presents a sea of possibilities to a weaver and a philosopher alike. Weavers rely on tradition and their intuitive sense of balance, proportion, and harmony to navigate through this maze of possibilities. They pursue and produce without ego. Hand-spun wool is textured and fragile; its characteristics have shaped tools devised by the weavers, who have preferred softer reeds or no reeds at all! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/4c18ad6f-8721-4de2-af63-f4a2f42743c6/68782887_1147363388782438_307977368763367424_o.png Desi Oon Crafts Though not a traditional craft practice, the knit craftswomen are known to be super dexterous. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/4d95e1cd-0315-4aae-9af0-c299853c0735/desi-oon-25.png Desi Oon Crafts The weaving of the Tabaria-wana is set up solely using the body as a loom, as each part of the body becomes tools of a loom, no other external tool is used to create a Tabaria-wana. This is used by Maldharis to cover the camel's udder. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/a0b62199-75f7-49cf-8be0-d1bcd8727ebd/namda-2.jpg Desi Oon Crafts When rolled on the pitcher, raw wool converts into threads that give birth to stunning designs that Namda artisans adorn their craft products with. Felt-makers use unspun wool to create a cohesive fabric. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/880ff877-79d1-421d-b5b7-b7cae3048dec/desi-oon-46.png Desi Oon Crafts Wool has a special affinity for vegetable dyes. This is because the myriad reactive groups of woollen fibres are trained to capture dyes at first sight! Generally, woollen yarns are dyed with dexterity by the dyers and then handed over to the weaver. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/9c4a0c09-bbd1-4292-9b1d-89f7f5db7029/spinning-kutchpng.png Desi Oon Crafts The herders also practice drop-spindle or takli spinning. Takli spinning requires no tools except a large pebble or a piece of wood lying in their path! Both sheep, yak, and camel herdsmen spin at all times; while taking it easy under a tree, ambling with the assembly of their animals, or harried hurried by headstrong ones in the herd! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/f4cde6d5-e9cb-4943-abf8-a1a69bbf203c/pushpa.png Desi Oon Crafts It is not uncommon to find women knitting on the move; they negotiate twisting trails and intricate designs at the same time with equal serenity; a testament to their focus, skill, and balance. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/f75772cc-c132-46ad-a6ed-1e2c04ca065f/desi-oon-8.png Desi Oon Crafts Camel girths were extensively made and used throughout the areas of western Rajasthan and the salt plains of Kachchh. Tangs were used to secure the many trading goods. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/dc9c1cc7-d8d0-4c68-8126-484a4c3d3397/namda-5.jpg Desi Oon Crafts Gulmohammad creates a flower-shaped design from the wool threads to design a felted mat. The wool balls are yet another prop to embellish the Namda mat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/01483295-0a4f-4473-9059-4b136a7effc3/Natural+Dyeing.png Desi Oon Crafts Thankfully, today local dyers can refer to the storehouse of knowledge established by their ancestors. Many indigenous communities in India have been practising natural vegetable dyeing for centuries. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/72423fbb-3bcd-4cda-a4a0-b4d664f88660/namda-6.jpg Desi Oon Crafts Oftentimes, if the artisans are in an experimental mood, they try hands-on creating extremely complex designs. Here, Gulmohammad uses wool thread to form a circular design on the mat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/f5d19c32-fc55-4224-9b9c-3b4a6724336b/WhatsApp+Image+2020-11-24+at+8.14.59+AM+%282%29.png Desi Oon Crafts The reed made of Mojari grass is one such example. The reed is supple - it pulsates with the flow of the yarn; it wavers and wobbles; balances the twin needs of not keeping the yarn unbroken and forming a stable surface of threads. Yet another instance is the ingenious use of a coat of Varath, a wild tuber of the onion family, extracted on warp threads – it lends strength to the yarn as well as powers to fight moths that tend to feed on wool. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/99ca19f1-0078-4bcc-a220-d44e80b47774/namda-10.jpg Desi Oon Crafts Gulmohammad dyes the wool fibres at home and use them in his designs to make flamboyant felted pieces. Here he fills the flower with blue and maroon wool fibres. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/c60d143c-a8e6-4f7f-be0d-1d7227cbcf2c/namda-7.jpg Desi Oon Crafts Heaps of cleansed wool is spread on the design waiting to be packed and turned into solid piece of textile by the arduous process of hand-felting. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/fec46c20-4356-4877-9d35-1c28028d2808/namda-8.jpg Desi Oon Crafts He uses an ancient technique to evenly wet the mat in the initial process. In olden times, when the spray bottles weren't invented, the felt-makers used their mouths as human sprays. Gulmohammad says he has a spray, yet it still doesn't work as efficiently as the age-old mouth spraying technique. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/fe3ceba8-8323-419d-a1fb-8e8093839334/namda-11.jpg Desi Oon Crafts The wet shrunken wool, when packed between layers of wet cloth and agitated against each other, transforms into solid pieces of textile. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/cf1f9c64-fbfd-489a-a414-ae436dc3d061/namda-12.jpg Desi Oon Crafts Seemingly a conjurer's trick, this is a result of the ability of wool fibres to interlock when whirled against each other. The felt-maker rolls the pack back and forth hundreds of times and the wool fibres intermesh to create a beautiful piece of textile. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/ae352b5c-8d05-466f-ae38-9cfe3ca600f3/desi-oon-45.jpg Desi Oon Crafts In the present day, the Namda artisans make a variety of patterned rugs, mats, and wall pieces. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/8b331d48-ced4-41f4-bc2a-6cd520706701/namda-13.jpg Desi Oon Crafts These are horse felted saddles and mats. They're completely hand-made with the ancient technique of Namda in indigenous sheep wool of Kutch. Today, these exquisite Namda hand-felted pieces are also used as antique wall pieces. https://www.desioonhub.org/history daily 0.75 2022-06-18 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1631876773996-Y0UZ5IJGGD8PULEGTNZ5/IMG_5941.JPEG History - Desi Oon: Orphaned By Policy and Policymakers The elimination of tariff barriers on wool in the mid-nineties led to the Indian hosiery sector moving to the softer, longer staple wool from New Zealand, Turkey and other parts of the Middle East. But sheep have to be sheared twice, sometimes thrice a year, and the bulk of this ends up on the roadside with no takers. The economics of wool is skewed due to a lack of demand and a huge supply of sheep wool given the population of sheep. Read more The decline in the use of Indigenous wool by the carpet industry has also been caused by enormous changes in trade policies, which have discriminated against wool by letting imported wool flood the market with relative ease. Bishwanath Goldar, a researcher, notes that “The reform process began in early 1995 with the removal of QRs on imports of wool tops, synthetic fibres, textile yarn and some selected industrial fabrics. Though most cotton fabrics and about half of the apparel tariff lines were omitted from the treaties, the EU/US agreements constituted, for India, a major commitment towards liberalization of textiles Imports.” Quantitative restrictions on woollen textiles import fell from 100 per cent in 1988-89 to just 27.27 per cent in 1995-96. This is in contrast to carpet weaving which continued to enjoy 100 per cent protection and ready-made garments 93.90 per cent protection. This had an immediate impact on the import of Woolen Yarn and Fabrics which grew from 103 million rupees in 1999-00 to 1679 million rupees in 2003-04 an astounding jump of more than 16 times in a space of 4 years. Similarly, the Raw Wool imports grew from 4919 million rupees in 1999-00 to 8706 million rupees in 2003-04; a jump of 70%. The wool board website corroborates the trend: The import of raw wool (Merino/ New Zealand- Greasy/Scoured) increased from 68.2 million kilos in 2001-02 to 110.1 million kilos in 2006-07, a 60% jump in a period of 5 years. Mill owners from the western state of Rajasthan buy most of their wool from overseas producers while the local produce is ignored. This is both because the wool from overseas markets is cheaper (also driven by state subsidies, none of which Indian pastoralists enjoy) and the wool is cleaned and easy to use (thanks to the investments in infrastructure by the governments of major wool-producing countries of the world; this again is sorely lacking in India). We believe wool remains valuable, it is a resource waiting to be appropriately harnessed, an economy waiting to be unfurled. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1632208933775-4STR1O39OZ6F1I14D8DG/unsplash-image-4xa_9G0h8Pc.jpg History - Meat Over Wool? There has been an increase in demand for sheep meat, and with governments promoting meat breeds over wool breeds, pastoralists have, over the years, begun to crossbreed their native breeds and switch towards meaty breeds. Herders now realise that these are more vulnerable to disease and less resilient than the hardy local breeds. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/edac74b5-8078-4d3b-a843-caf03b7532a6/desi-oon-73.jpg History - Wool Markets Today The coarse wool that does manage to reach the markets - and all of it produced by pastoral communities - nearly 95% is used as carpet grade wool or as some form of bulk filling in blankets with only 5% used in apparel. Across regions, numbers of indigenous sheep have declined drastically, and correspondingly, the production of local wool has gone through a sharp decline. https://www.desioonhub.org/resources daily 0.75 2021-12-27 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1632122690885-BD4RB57H4MWOXZQ07H3N/unsplash-image-qf3qwi98er4.jpg Resources https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1632122851291-HDS9EDXJ6LVKW5H0H6VR/unsplash-image-vt2efWhbs-E.jpg Resources https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1632123179638-ZKC4R6N2I4R1NXBS0Q1E/unsplash-image-bAQkE-NU8Fs.jpg Resources https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1632123948662-UT2985ONY7UFGVMVGTBF/unsplash-image-hQ1SwcCC58w.jpg Resources https://www.desioonhub.org/bikaner-house-exhibit daily 0.75 2021-11-16 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5ec321c2af33de48734cc929/1607694644871-IC85FNH781UNZSZEGHDR/Aro+Ha_0428.jpg Bikaner House Exhibit https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/be133bfa-d773-4318-bc7e-7aeb6fd0a8ce/Desioon_BikanerHouse_KhamirArchives_1315_800.jpeg Bikaner House Exhibit https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1631358146520-JKTOHWFVLS3H74J9ZY8D/3E0A7381+copy.jpg Bikaner House Exhibit https://www.desioonhub.org/volunteer daily 0.75 2022-07-13 https://www.desioonhub.org/history-1 daily 0.75 2022-01-29 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1631876848554-PODSCPI8PWW6N14QJ59R/IMG_5941.jpg History Test - Desi Oon: Orphaned By Policy and Policymakers The elimination of tariff barriers on wool in the mid-nineties led to the Indian hosiery sector moving to the softer, longer staple wool from New Zealand, Turkey and other parts of the Middle East. But sheep have to be sheared twice, sometimes thrice a year, and the bulk of this ends up on the roadside with no takers. The economics of wool is skewed due to lack of demand and a huge supply of sheep wool given the population of sheep. Read more The decline in the use of Indigenous wool by the carpet industry has also been caused by enormous changes in trade policies, which have discriminated against wool by letting imported wool flood the market with relative ease. Bishwanath Goldar, a researcher, notes that “The reform process began in early 1995 with the removal of QRs on imports of wool tops, synthetic fibres, textile yarn and some selected industrial fabrics. Though most cotton fabrics and about half of the apparel tariff lines were omitted from the treaties, the EU/US agreements constituted, for India, a major commitment towards liberalization of textiles Imports.” Quantitative restrictions on woollen textiles import fell from 100 per cent in 1988-89 to just 27.27 percent in 1995-96. This is in contrast to carpet weaving which continued to enjoy 100 per cent protection and Ready-made garments 93.90 per cent protection. This had an immediate impact on the import of Woolen Yarn & Fabrics which grew from 103 million rupees in 1999-00 to 1679 million rupees in 2003-04 an astounding jump of more than 16 times in a space of 4 years. Similarly, the Raw Wool imports grew from 4919 million rupees in 1999-00 to 8706 million rupees in 2003-04; a jump of 70% The wool board website corroborates the trend: The import of raw wool (Merino/ New Zealand- Greasy/Scoured) increased from 68.2 million kilos in 2001-02 to 110.1 million kilos in 2006-07, a 60% jump in a period of 5 years. Mill owners from the western state of Rajasthan buy most of their wool from overseas producers while the local pastoralists are ignored. This is both because the wool from overseas markets is cheaper (also driven by state subsidies none of which Indian pastoralists enjoy) and, the wool is cleaned and easy to use (thanks to the investments in infrastructure by the governments of major wool-producing countries of the world; this again is sorely lacking in India). We believe wool remains valuable, it is a resource waiting to be appropriately harnessed, an economy waiting to be unfurled. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1632208933775-4STR1O39OZ6F1I14D8DG/unsplash-image-4xa_9G0h8Pc.jpg History Test - Meat Over Wool? There has been an increase in demand for sheep meat, and with Governments promoting meat breeds over wool breeds, pastoralists have, over the years, begun to crossbreed their native breeds or maintain a larger flock of meaty breeds; they now realize that these are more vulnerable to disease and less resilient than the hardy local breeds. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/edac74b5-8078-4d3b-a843-caf03b7532a6/desi-oon-73.jpg History Test - Wool Markets Today The coarse wool that does manage to reach the markets - and all of it produced by pastoral communities - nearly 95% is used as carpet grade wool or as some form of bulk filling in blankets with only 5% used in apparel. Across regions, numbers of indigenous sheep have declined drastically, and correspondingly, the production of local wool has gone through a sharp decline. https://www.desioonhub.org/desioonevents daily 0.75 2025-12-09 https://www.desioonhub.org/desioonevents/desi-oon-workshop monthly 0.5 2025-12-06 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/1669961292933-NBRMXM9F8HS2R4LFIK2Q/Web_Update_2.jpg https://www.desioonhub.org/desioonevents/desi-oon-workshop-sz2an monthly 0.5 2025-12-09 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/b8f4d2d0-213d-4e14-916b-4f5fefeac02b/Invite+poster.jpeg https://www.desioonhub.org/desioonevents/online-exhibit-winter-20 monthly 0.5 2021-11-16 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/b6df2733-886f-441f-a2a1-f50fc23d0588/nipun-desi-oon.JPEG Events - Online Exhibit Winter '20 Patanwadi Wool Jacket by Khamir. Image Credits: Nipun Prabhakar https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/3db42da3-a4be-411f-86f7-40b86f41d095/72685084_2875091625857932_1652212749846970368_n.jpg Events - Online Exhibit Winter '20 - Avani Nestled in the Kumaon region of Uttarakhand, Avani is a community built on the principles of sustainability and local empowerment. Fusing traditional techniques with sustainable technologies, Avani's talented farmers and artisans produce exquisite, one-of-a-kind textiles and lifestyle products using 100% natural materials, including plant-derived dyes, sustainably harvested indigo, and locally-produced silk and wool. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/6c650aa7-87b6-4d50-b20f-0a01002029bd/68782887_1147363388782438_307977368763367424_o.jpg Events - Online Exhibit Winter '20 - Peoli Also based in the Kumaon hills, Peoli is a design studio based in Almora. It is an initiative by two textile design graduates from the National Institute of Design, Abhinav Dhoundiyal and Vasanthi Veluri, who work with the women artisans of Almora to develop a range of handmade, natural-dyed woollen and cotton products. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/e5edb8ad-b772-47bc-8274-d96fd5c5d81c/IMG_20191025_082047.jpg Events - Online Exhibit Winter '20 - Aana Jaana Aana Jaana is an initiative by Jen Hoover who works directly with herders, weavers, and knitters to develop new markets for their wool and woollen products. Jen is a hobby spinner-knitter-weaver turned interdisciplinary researcher with a B.A. in Anthropology and M.S. in Textiles. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/c0713b72-0af0-47fa-a487-9ca74abd8187/17015693_1139364702855568_2461052649794348437_o.jpg Events - Online Exhibit Winter '20 - Kullvi WHIMS Kullvi WHIMS is a self-help group formed by nine women artisans of Naggar village in Kullu Valley. The women are all traditional artisans, who work with the local wool and learnt spinning, weaving, knitting and crochet from their family members and have mostly practised their crafts for their own needs. It is promoted by Nisha Subramanium, who has been working with traditional weaving and pastoral communities in Himachal Pradesh for more than 8 years and has worked to reinterpret the traditional pattu in the forms of stoles, shawls, and blankets. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/4996aaa5-0338-43b8-b3a0-a26732e914ab/vlcsnap-2015-08-17-19h40m33s231.png Events - Online Exhibit Winter '20 - Rangsutra Rangsutra is a company owned by a community of over two thousand artisans across rural India. It acts as a bridge between rural artisans and global consumers in order to develop sustainable livelihoods and revive India’s rich craft heritage. They believe that their communities of artisans, particularly women, deserve economic opportunities, and they aim to keep alive the rich tradition of their craftsmanship in a rapidly changing urban market. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/74977b58-6bc0-45b6-8605-bd6bd6e65ac9/7694e4e4-40d7-4187-b7e4-101088abd1c4.JPG Events - Online Exhibit Winter '20 - Khamir Khamir is a platform for the crafts, heritage and cultural ecology of the Kachchh region of Gujarat. Instituted after the earthquake of 2001, it is a space for engagement and development of Kachchh's rich creative industries. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/a9122b49-c031-4dc7-8629-ab6d158bd140/DSC_0139.jpg Events - Online Exhibit Winter '20 - Vankar Vishram Valji Shamjibhai, who brands his enterprise with the name of his father, Vankar Vishram Valji, is grandmaster-like in his treatment of the fibre and perception of weaving craft. No wonder, he is an inspiration to the entire community of weavers in Kutch. His work is an example of unwavering belief in traditions, a keen sense of design, and chutzpah in pushing the boundaries of craft. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/db5f6a3b-bb90-4f0b-87c1-879e877962c5/Mitan+crafts Events - Online Exhibit Winter '20 - Mitan Mitan, based in North Karnataka, promotes craft-based, sustainable livelihood projects for women who had previously depended on seasonal wage-based labour and migration to cities for work. The women have revived and mastered many of North Karnataka's craft traditions and techniques such as indigo dyeing of the neelgars, folk stitch and joinery of the Nadafs, felting, spinning and the kambal weaving techniques of the sheepherding communities. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/ad0468c1-3ede-4e6b-bee0-d8faa5810294/WhatsApp+Image+2020-12-16+at+4.08.18+PM.jpeg Events - Online Exhibit Winter '20 - Earthen Tunes Founded by the alumni of the National Institute of Design-Ahmedabad, Earthen Tunes is a social enterprise trying to build a better India for the future. Equipped with the tools of Design Thinking and Product Design, Earthen Tunes is presently trying to empower farmers and rural artisans through footwear made of indigenous wool and other natural materials. https://www.desioonhub.org/desioonevents/exhibit-grandhandloomfair-new-delhi-2021 monthly 0.5 2021-11-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/4f568e38-8c71-49c9-8b4f-b29ad02547ae/IMG_0270.jpg Events - Exhibit Grand Handloom Fair, New Delhi Fall '21 https://www.desioonhub.org/desioonevents/desioonexhibitbykhamir monthly 0.5 2021-11-16 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/be133bfa-d773-4318-bc7e-7aeb6fd0a8ce/Desioon_BikanerHouse_KhamirArchives_1315_800.jpeg Events - Desi Oon Exhibit By Khamir @Bikaner House, New Delhi https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/d3da6e34-ab55-4b3e-9f0c-f7caaa28e9c2/LL-1.jpg Events - Desi Oon Exhibit By Khamir @Bikaner House, New Delhi - Khamir organised Desi Oon: A four-day exhibition held from 10th-13th December 2020 in Bikaner House, Delhi. Desi oon celebrates indigenous wool, its craft, and sheep breeds. It was organised in collaboration with weavers, spinners, dyers and felt artisans of Kutch along with designer collections. This exhibition is the first step by Khamir to communicate the utility of indigenous wool to urban consumer markets. It was inaugurated by a panel of ten members that represent the entire value chain of wool. The story of wool and sensitively designed woollen products helped sway consumer preferences, opening them to accepting wool in their households and closets. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/283640e2-1abe-49d8-b75f-87d5b320a2dc/LL-5.jpg Events - Desi Oon Exhibit By Khamir @Bikaner House, New Delhi - For the exhibition, the wool used was developed from indigenous Kutchi sheep yarn procured from 8 herders and spun by more than 150 spinners. The exhibition showcased works developed by local artisan weavers and felters alongside Khamir initiated designer collections. All the products underwent value addition and wool treatments facilitated by Khamir. Total 8 artisan units participated with unique collections developed especially for launch at this exhibition, along with two designer collections by Archana Shah of Bandhej and Amit and Richard of Amrich Designs. The collections were limited edition and presented for market reaction and limited sales. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/a4357759-9941-49f8-bc67-dd46d0ad0d2e/IMG_9208.JPG Events - Desi Oon Exhibit By Khamir @Bikaner House, New Delhi - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60be203816d6b011fa63f746/5a6a1fcb-a747-434b-95bc-883c995d9f03/LL-4.jpg Events - Desi Oon Exhibit By Khamir @Bikaner House, New Delhi - Additionally, Khamir held daily craft workshops which accepted participant registrations online and on spot. Registrations for these workshops required payment of a subsidized fee. Workshops were conducted on: Desi Retiya (charkha) and Takli/Dhera (Spindle) spinning demo and workshop. Kharad weaving on Nomadic loom demo and workshop. Felting demo and workshop Split ply demo and workshop